SHANGHAI — If you begin from China, it takes a few attempts to go to Da Vittorio, a three-celebrity Michelin eating place, outdoor Bergamo within the hills of northern Italy. You have to devise and make your reservations weeks earlier. And you could want a detour: It does now not in shape without difficulty into the same old whistle-prevent tour of Italy, typically centered on Rome, Florence, and Venice.
But such a lot of Chinese travelers have made the culinary pilgrimage to the hillside village of Brusaporto, which Da Vittorio founded over 50 years ago, that the eating place has determined to come back to them — and has opened a branch this summertime in Shanghai.
The original eating place, founded by using the Cerea circle of relatives in 1966, is a legend in Italy. The Shanghai department is the second foreign outpost after one in Switzerland, within the motel of St. Moritz.
Chinese diners have lengthy liked Italian first-rate eating, not least in Shanghai, which is now seeing an explosion in the starting of Italian eateries. Other beginners include any other associate of a well-known Italian authentic — Terra Shanghai, which is modeled on Terra – The Magic Place, a two-superstar Michelin eating place owned with the aid of the Schneider family in Sarentino, in the Dolomite mountains.
At Da Vittorio, Enrico Cerea (aka Chicco), the government chef and the oldest son of the founding circle of relatives, explains that the concept for setting up in Shanghai got here from hosting the increasing numbers of Chinese visitors in Brusaporto. “One of our guests counseled setting up Da Vittorio Shanghai,” he says.
Also making up the list are a couple of luxury hotel institutions — Il Ristorante – Niko Romito, in the Bulgari Hotel Shanghai, and Arva, at the Amanyangyun hotel, on Shanghai’s outskirts.
The Cerea family has organized carefully with the aid of sending a team of educated professionals from Europe, together with the resident govt chef Stefano Bacchelli. Cerea says that Da Vittorio has inherited Cerea’s own family’s soul in presenting genuine Lombard classics in a modern style. But “mild adaptations” for nearby tastes are allowed, he says. “Taking risotto, as an instance, we cook rice softer as Chinese prefer.”
As Chinese people are frequently worried about sourcing meals in China, the restaurant takes top-notch care in buying fresh components. “Our Chinese proprietor can find the right providers from everywhere,” says Cerea. If something does now not a training session, the restaurant produces options. For instance, the Cerea family in Italy runs a vineyard, but its Chinese running license does not permit it to import wines. So the Shanghai cellar, with over 600 exceptional wines, is stocked from other manufacturers.
While Da Vittorio Shanghai emphasizes its founders’ creative family traditions, Terra Shanghai takes a greater adventurous approach, with an extensive-ranging interpretation of contemporary Italian cooking. Executive chef Sandro Zheng indicates this revolutionary spirit differentiates it from different Italian high-quality-dining restaurants in Shanghai. It additionally pushes clients’ expectations to the limits. “One of the challenges is that strongly spiced dishes are not extensively prevalent,” says Zheng.
The Italian unique is open to affordable adjustments to nearby tastes and wishes. For instance, Zheng selected Australian red meat in preference to Italian red meat after speakme to Heinrich Schneider, founding Terra’s father – The Magic Place. Except for some unique sorts of clean produce from Sarentino, most Italian components can be accessed from neighborhood Chinese suppliers. “Because our Chinese proprietor has a natural farm in Chongming Island, a suburb of Shanghai,” Zheng says, “we get what we plant, which include sparkling herbs and spices.”
Zheng agreed that some Chinese guests would possibly provide him much less admiration as a Chinese chef heading an Italian exceptional eating place than they could if he were Italian. But Zheng believes that his Asian background enriches his visions of present-day Italian cuisine. “The new menu is coming quickly, in which there will be more innovative enter from my facet,” Zheng says.