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Bombay’s Irani cafes

Tamika S. Sheehan by Tamika S. Sheehan
March 8, 2025
in Mughlai Cuisine
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It is tough to assume today that In became once India’s neighbor. The Partition of India and the formation of the State of Pakistan in 1947 separated the two geographically. But the Indian subcontinent and Persian Empire (today’s Iran)[1] have had political, monetary, and social ties for almost millennia. Bombay’s Iranians are a logo of that soft border of the beyond.

The Iranian network, made from Zoroastrians and Muslim Shias (about 2,500 in a wide variety nowadays,[2] had been a recognizable part of Mumbai because of the late 19th century Irani cafés-cum-provision stores they installed. There were approximately 350 then[3], a maximum of them being Zoroastrian-run; about 15% have been run through Shias. (Today, there are most effective 35 left.)

Their popularity among Bombay’s migrant labor and the running training led to their mushrooming on every road nook. Hindu traders considered nook premises inauspicious and allowed them to out cheap to the Irun when the local people referred to the proprietors sitting on the cash until.[4]

They had not been the earliest immigrants from Iran. The earliest Iranian network to settle in Bombay was the Muslim Shia merchants from Shiraz, Bushire, and Isfahan, who arrived in the city sometime within the early half of the 19th century, having been involved in the Persian Gulf alternate over generations. (This might challenge Part II of this collection on Mumbai’s Indo-Iran history.) Bombay had begun its dizzying rise as the foremost port city in the East. Manufacturing, banking, and monetary market developments were to make it the financial capital of India by the 1870s.

The later immigrants, each Zoroastrian and Shia got here from Yazd and Kerman’s drought-hit provinces and discovered a new livelihood in Bombay through the cafes they set up. The foremost towns in this arid location of southern Iran – Yazd, Jaffarabad, Khairabad – had been as soon as oasis settlements that have been part of the caravan network of the south of the Silk Route. Its residents have been, by and large, horticulturists and those areas have been recognized for the fruit they produced (especially the legendary Taft pomegranates), artisanal objects, consisting of silk embroidery, and their Qahva-Kanas or espresso homes.[5]

Why did they cross into the tea shop business? “Because Iran itself has Qahva-Kanas, which used to supply opium for smoking, coffee, and black tea; so the Yazidis had a few histories of getting ready tea. The idea of Qahva-Kanas advanced into the Irani cafes and restaurants in Bombay,” says Sayed Safar Ali Husaini, proprietor of Lucky Restaurant in Bandra and a pacesetter of the Yazdi Shia network in the metropolis.

Yet, the first Irani café proprietor turned into a Zoroastrian, Khodadad Oshtori,[6] [7] who opened his tea keep in Dhobi Talao[8] in the early 19th century. This factors to an early Irani Zoroastrian presence inside the metropolis – before the primary massive wave of immigrants from Yazd and Kerman, wherein successive droughts started with the Great Famine Iran (1870-seventy two) – destroyed arable land and impelled their flight.

Referring to those determined instances, Dr. Mansoor Showghi Yezdi, a documentary film-maker whose award-winning film, Café Irani Chai, documents this history, says, “My grandfather, Haji Mohammed Showghi Yezdi, changed into a strapping 16-year-antique, while he came on foot from his village Khairabad in Yazd. He walked – because he didn’t have an unmarried pie[9] in his pocket, similar to the institution of people he became with.” This organization broke apart as they stepped forward on their adventure via the subcontinent. Some stayed again in Quetta, Karachi, and Lahore, before attaining Bombay, Poona, and, sooner or later, Hyderabad, wherein Irani restaurants are focused even today.

The Iranis were drawn through the possibilities of a better life in British India, particularly Bombay, and Poona, where Iranian Zoroastrians had already settled. “I even have come upon many circulars dated around 1895, stating that the Iranis are welcome in British India because of the good relations between Britain and Persia,” says Deepak Rao, writer of Mumbai Police: a hundred and fifty years. “All of them needed to record yearly to the Registration of Foreigners (Asiatic) branch of the Bombay CID to increase their stay – this became a preferred practice which they gladly fulfilled.”

There changed into additionally a geopolitical element to this. The Iranis had been fleeing the lack of their hometown: British India turned into an alternative because of what is referred to as the ‘Great Game’ in West Asia, with the Russian and British Empires competing for spheres of influence in a susceptible Qajar Persia.[10] [11]

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